We took the metro to the Belleville station and headed towards rue Denoyer, a little street that has been taken over by Parisian grafitti artists. We discovered it last fall when we took a walk with a fellow Our Paris Forum poster and he introduced us to this vibrant area. We were there around 11am and the street was a lot less busy than when we were there last year, so Den was able to take lots of pictures at his leisure. Some of the art is really interesting and it's very expressive.
Upon leaving the market, we strolled to Place Maurice Chevalier and then made our way toward Parc Belleville, from where you can get fantastic views of Paris down below, including a little landmark you may recognize.
Before we left this morning, I had called Le Baratin to see if they had space for us for lunch. We had gone last year and so enjoyed our meal, we knew we wanted to go back. Luckily they were able to squeeze us in and so we got to enjoy Raquel Carera's wonderfully earthy cooking. She is from Argentina and has made this tiny restaurant far from the center of Paris into a "go to" place. They have a great value lunch menu ~ 3 course for 18 euros. Den had a little square of a veggie that resembles spinach but I can't remember what it's called. I had a white bean soup for entree. Den had pork with very creamy mashed potatoes and I had a red tuna stew which was fantastic ~ the tuna was still rare in the middle, just the way I like it. Apple crumble and a cheese course completed the meal and we stumbled out very full and happy!
We had eaten lunch here last fall (gee, this sounds familiar, see a few paragraphs above, lol) and really wanted to try dinner this time. I had made reservations before leaving Canada and we saw them turn away at least 5 couples while we were there. The chef serves a market driven menu and there are no choices to be made beyond your wine choice. 4 courses for 33 euros (and remember that this includes all taxes and service in Europe) is wonderful value for the delicious meal we savoured. The wall is lined with wine bottles and they are available at cost plus a 7 euro corkage fee.
We started with a tomato gazpacho which is served in 2 stages. Your bowl comes with the dry ingredients at the bottom and you ladle the broth from a tureen served at your table. Everything was so fresh and light, with the crunchy vegetables, croutons and lardons providing a great contrast to the cool tomato soup.
We enjoyed 2 more delicious courses ~ a brie served with a quennelle of stewed apples and a raspberry mousse full of little crunchy bits of chocolate. 3 and a half hours after we sat down for dinner, we stumbled out of Les Papilles, very full and very content. We walked slowly home, enjoying the streets still full of people out taking advantage of a beautiful fall evening in Paris. Home by midnight and no plans the next day besides a lunch reservation at 1pm meant we could enjoy a good nights sleep.