Back in Paris, baby!

Could someone please stop the clock!  I can't believe it's been 9 months since I last posted.  Here's a quick update since my last post ~ I had a hard time adjusting to my new job at first ~ a complete career change at age 52 doesn't come easily, especially for an anal perfectionist like moi!  I did a lot of second guessing myself in those first few months, as I chose to remember only the best parts of my old career (like flexibility, lots of vacation time and the great people I worked with).  Trying to cram new information into this old broad's head took its toll, as I spend many weekends studying Canadian pension and old age security legislation.  I'm not satisfied just doing something, I have to do it well from the get go.  The first few weeks on the phones were a little terrifying but I soon got the hang of it.  I get so much satisfaction when clients tell me that I've helped them and I love going home and leaving the stress behind.  So I think I've made the right choice for myself (but I sure do miss my friends from my old job ~ thank goodness we have stayed in touch and make sure we get together every few months to catch up.)

Anyways, back to Paris ~ we landed at CDG on Saturday morning and were in our perfect little apartment on rue Bourg Tibourg in the Marais 2 hours later, thanks to our wonderful driver from Shuttle Inter.  We have rented once again from Thierry from Paris Best Lodge and we just love our place.  It's right in the middle of the Marais, we have a FranPrix supermarket right across the street (as well as a great little bar for le Happy Hour!) Once we checked in, we took a stroll around our new neighbourhood and had a delicious lunch at Les Philosophes ~ salad with magret, Serrano ham, chèvre on toast, avocado, all with a light vinaigrette.  We sat outside and basked in the joy of being back in the city we loved.

We walked around the Marais for about an hour and then went back to the apartment to take a little nap.  Going without sleep for 18 hours will do that to you, lol.  Once refreshed, we wandered back out and had a little Happy hour on a bar on rue Rivoli, Champagne for me and a Caprihna (or 2) for Den.  Dinner was easy ~ great pasta at Pizza Momo, a Paris tradition for us.  We ended the night with drinks at the Lizard Lounge, a great little bar right across the street from our apartment. We then went home and crashed for the next 12 hours!

Sunday morning came around very fast and all of a sudden, Den is 53 years old!  Life could be worse than celebrating your birthday in Paris.  After a leisurely breakfast in the apartment, we went out and strolled around Ile St Louis, the Marais and the 12th arrondissement, making our way slowly to our lunch destination, Le Baron Rouge.  This is a little wine bar near le marché Aligré that I've wanted to come to for years, but just never made it.  Well, we made it there today and I'm so happy we did.  We had a great lunch of cheese, charcutrie and a great little Muscadet.  We chatted with the trio next to us and found that they had reservations at Septime and Le Bistro Paul Bert on the same nights as us.  I flirted with one of the great waiters and we had the time of our lives for 41 euros!

After ambling back to the apartment, via the ateliers on rue Viaduct des Arts, we got ready for dinner with our friends from Montreal.  Celia and Yves were ending a 2 week trip to Portugal with a night in Paris, which just happened to be on Den's birthday!  We took the 96 bus to Montparnasse and started our evening with champagne at le Ciel de Paris on the 56th floor of La Tour Montparnasse.  We then took a cab to Le Pere Claude, a tradtional bistro in the 15th, just behind the Eiffel Tower.  We scored a great little private table in an alcove and enjoyed a wonderful dinner, great wine and even better company and conversation.  Time flew by and before we knew it, it was past 11pm and the restaurant was empty except for us!  We walked to the Eiffel Tower to watch her sparkle (I never, ever tire of this sight) and then we said our good nights.  Celia and Yves took a cab back to their hotel and we strolled along the Seine, enjoying the balmy fall air and the view of the Tower as she followed us on our walk.  We made it to our favourite bridge, Pont Alexandre III and then caught a cab home.

We both slept in until 10:30 this morning and had a light breakfast of yogurt, coffee and OJ.  We took the 67 bus to Place d'Italie and meandered around Butte Aux Cailles, discovering the little streets and houses that give this area a true village feel in the middle of Paris.  After a quick stop for lunch at a little turkish place where I enjoyed a mixed plate of middle eastern spreads and Den had a spicy duram wrap, we continued onto rue d'Alesia for some shopping.  I scored a beautiful coat at the same little shop where I got lucky 3 years ago and also bought a cute Desigual purse to go with my new coat.  We  made our way to Gare Montparnasse where we took the 96 back to our apartment for a rest before dinner.

About 90 minutes later, we were back out, making our way to Terroir Parisien, a great restaurant in the 5th.  Our landlord, Thierry, had invited us, along with a few of his other tenants, for some wine and nibbles.  I was so happy to see our new friends Jane, Joel and Roniece make it to this gathering.  We had a great time getting to know each other and it felt like we have been friends forever!  I also loved seeing Thierry's parents again after meeting them a few years ago at the same type of gathering.  Before we knew it, it was time to go.  Thierry had graciously arranged a driver to bring us to Septime, where we had a much sought after dinner reservation.

What can I say about our meal ~ it was sublime.  It's a no choice, market driven menu prepared with pristine ingredients and served by a charming and professional waitstaff.  The decor is minimal, with an open kitchen so you can see the genius as it happens.

We were given a wonderful table, and started with a glass of champagne.  We asked the sommelier to pair our wine to each 2 half courses (there are 6 ~ 2 entrées, 2 mains and 2 desserts).  Since we did not know what we were eating, this was a great way to enjoy the perfect wine with each course.

Our first course was octopus served with smoked lardons, cucumber, celery, mâche, dill in a sweet broth that was out of this world.  We drank a young Gamay which went very well with the fish.  Second course was girolles and cèpes served with a mousse aux oeufs on an almond base.  This was so earthy and delicious that every last drop was mopped up with the artisanal whole grain honey wheat bread on the table.

Next came the first of our two mains ~ a velouté de tapenade d'olives et cress with lieu jaune (fish), served with mini leeks, wilted roasted lettuce.  This was paired with a beautifully fresh Sauvignon Blanc. The second main was a pintade printaniere with baby turnips, beets, squash, braised zucchini and parsley.  The meat was so tender with a nice crunch on the outside.  Just beautifully presented and so flavourful.

Our desserts started with an unbelievable sorbet au poire topped with crumbled feta ~ something you wouldn't think would work together, but it so did!  The combination of salty and sweet, cold and warm was over the top and induced a few food orgasms.  Our sommelier paired this with a wonderful dessert wine which was a melange of chenin blanc en maturation.  It was the perfect accompaniment.  Our last course of the evening was poached pears with mousse à la vervaine, served over a brown sugar galette.  Our meal lasted over 2 and a half hours and every bite was a delight (hey, I'm a poet!).  We dined at a nice leisurely pace, every course was properly explained to us and we were always invited to ask questions or make comments.  Our bill for 6 courses, 2 glass of champagne, 6 glasses of wine and one of the best dining experiences of our lives was 186 euros (and of course this includes taxes and tip, as it always does in Paris).

We strolled home hand in hand, giddy with the pleasure of a well enjoyed meal.  I know we will be back to Septime next time we are in Paris ~ it is a place you tuck away as a favourite, knowing that the surprises that await you next time will be as wonderful as those you experienced the very first time you were lucky enough to dine there.

A food expo, meeting someone's mom and urchins for the first time!

We were fairly lazy yesterday morning ~ Den went to get some croissants and pain au chocolats and we nursed 2 cups of coffee and listened to FM 102.3, a great Paris radio station that plays mostly classic rock, thus perfect for an old broad like me! The apartment has a great sound system, with speakers hooked up from the beams on the ceiling, delivering clear, crisp sound.

Since rain was forecast for Thursday, we decided to do something indoors. There were a few art exhibits I had read about (the Stein exhibit at Le Grand Palais and Edvard Munch at Beaubourg) but in the end we stayed true to our roots and opted for a food exposition at La Porte de Versailles conference center way in the 15th.  We had visited this huge combination of buildings last year when the bi-annual Paris Car Show was in town, so we knew how to get there.

The exhibit was called Cuisinez avec M6 and is being held in Hall #2 until October 9.  M6 is the French equivalent to our Food Network and many of the celebrity chefs were on hand, giving cooking demonstrations on air as well as offering smaller classes which you had to pay for (I think).  In addition, there were lots of producers of wine, champagne, foie gras, charcuterie, chocolate, spices, cheeses offering samples.  There was also kitchen wares suppliers, from knives, mixers, beautiful stoves, aprons, food preparation products, and lots of cookbooks from all the various celebrity chefs and other well known chefs.  I almost bought a beautiful book on Parisian restaurants and bistros from Alain Ducasse (well, not from him personally, lol) but it was so big and heavy that I was worried about our luggage allowance and sadly had to pass.

We spent about 3 hours wandering around, tasting and chatting, watching some demonstrations and really enjoying ourselves.  There really weren't too many tourists at this show since it is geared to the locals who watch the TV shows, so it was a fun way to mingle with locals in a totally different atmosphere.

Hot French Celebrity Chef!

Some of the demonstrations scheduled

kids' cooking class

foie gras stuffed magret de canard ~ OMG!

they were so cute!

We left the expo around 2pm, planning to walk along rue de Vaugirard to find a little place for an easy lunch, but it was quite windy and spitting rain, so we decided to just take the metro back to the apartment, pick up some baguettes and eat in. Den got his baguette but I just scarfed some leftover comte and grapes from last night in addition to part of a magret saucission that we bought at the expo.  Den had a little nap and I surfed the net and we whiled away a few hours in our little Parisian apartment.  Sometimes a great trip is just about the down time as well as being on the go and "seeing" stuff.  We really haven't seen any notable tourist places in Paris this time, but our time here is more now about just wandering around with stops for food and wine, lol.  We still can't get enough of the little streets and and the fact that almost no matter where we end up, there's something beautiful to see.  Oh, and we kinda like the food too, :)


Our very kind landlord, Thierry had invited us to what he called his favourite little wine bar near La Bourse for a little get together with some of his regular clients.  We left the apartment a little after 4pm, intending to wander slowly through the Marais and into the 2nd, stopping along the way for a little expresso to give us a little boost.  We really took our time, exploring some little streets and some bigger boulevards and just being happy to be in Paris.  The air was much cooler than earlier in the week so the very chic Parisians had their fall finery out, including lots of leggings tucked into high black boots and of course the ubiquitous scarfs!

When we finally got to Passage Vivienne, we had a little trouble finding the place where we were to meet Thierry.  We were looking for a little corner wine bar ~ when we finally matched the address he had given us to the actual building we were happily surprised to find that the GTG was at Le Grand Filles et Fils, one of the premier wine caves of Paris!  They are well known for stocking very rare and expensive wines and it was a pleasure to be able to enjoy time in their beautiful environment.

Thierry had invited about 6 couples as well as his parents and his brother, who he works with.  His dad was in the wine business and his mom is a retired school teacher.  I spend most of the evening talking with this tiny, vivacious woman, who shared many intimate stories of her life with me, including the hardship her family endured during the war, her belief in hard work but also in the importance of family and her glowing pride in her husband and three sons.  She is one of the truly nicest people I have ever met and it was a priviledge to get to know her.  I told her that it has been our great pleasure to get to know her son and that she was right to be so proud of him, since he is a truly caring, honest businessman.  We enjoyed a few glasses of excellent wine, including a Saint Emillion that was a revelation.  We also got to know a few of Thierry's other clients, include a couple from San Francisco who have been renting from him for about 10 years and a couple from Australia and one from Vancouver.  The only thing we all had in common was our love for Paris and our admiration for Thierry.

It was such an honour to be invited to this intimate gathering and it will be a special memory for both Den and I for a long time.

We had dinner reservations for 8:30 at Au Passages, a relatively new little wine bar in the 11th opened by some Spring alumni.  We reluctantly left our new friends and started making our way to our destination, strolling through the 2nd and 3rd arrondissments, taking our time and enjoying Paris once again.  You can probably tell by this time that we love to walk and only take public transportation if our destination is really too far away to walk to.

Au Passage is on tiny Passage Saint Sebastian off rue Amelot and if you didn't know it was there, you would never find it.  In my obsessive search for new eating experiences in Paris, it had come up several times on a few parisian food sites that are very reliable since they are hosted by locals and ex-pats who love all things related to the food and restaurant scene in Paris.  They serve a 4 course lunch for about 16 euros and the evening menu is mostly small plates (tapas) along with a nicely chosen wine list.  The decor is very eclectic, with mismatched chairs and tables, bare white walls decorated with little prints and start white lighting fixtures.  We were about 30 minutes early for our reservation but the place quickly filled up with very young, very hip locals.  We probably upped the average age of the patrons by about 20 years, lol.  There was a real buzz to the place once it was full, and we sat and ate our way through about 8 little plates and a lovely bottle of white Sancerre seemed to disappear easily through our almost 3 hours there.  We tried urchin for the first time (Den liked it so much, he ordered another portion), we had burrata which I mistook for belotta (maybe too much wine today?) but it was so good, served with an excellent olive oil and very smooth and unctious.  We tried bonites, which is a type of raw tuna which was out of this world ~ so silky and fresh, we also ordered another portion.  We had little cockles served over inky black squid ~ the bread we dipped in came out jet black.  Dessert was a little quennelle of chocolate ganache served over a pool of caramel sauce (oops, I think I just had an orgasm!) and fresh rapberries in a creme fraiche.  All these little plates were served in perfect intervals, giving us lots of time to talk, sip wine and take in the fun, kicky atmosphere.  I ended up talking to a young guy who sat at the bar and made his way through several courses.  He just finished an apprentice at one of the Michelin starred restaurants in Paris, Taillevent but has to return to the States for now due to Visa issues.  He is so passionate about food and told us that he worked 16 hour days at the restaurant but loved what he was doing and learned so much about French cooking technique.  He also said that he actually prefers these tiny places where the chefs are doing new inventive things with food and we talked about some of the places we've been (Spring, Frenchies, Papilles, etc) and he told us we had to try Le Chateaubriand.  Maybe next year!

sea urchins ~ who knew!

Burrata

Bonites with eggplant ~ so good, we ordered it twice!

cockles with squid in ink

don't get this stuff on your clothes, lol

chocolate and caramel sauce ~ OMG!!

Dinner was a very reasonable 93 euros for all the food and wine and fun we had and we ambled home through the Marais and were home before midnight.  We didn't really do much today but walk around, eat, drink, and meet wonderful new people.  To us, that's a perfect day in Paris.

Tonight looks sunnier and cool and we have reservations at Chez L'Ami Jean at 1:30 with friends we met last year at Spring.  After that, well, who knows where Paris will take us today.