Showing posts with label Naxos. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Naxos. Show all posts

Monday, 24 September 2012

Travel thoughts.......

I'm sitting on our little balcony at Hotel Spiros for the last time ~ bags are packed, bill is paid, breakfast has been eaten.  We are taking the Blue Star Delos ferry to Santorini at 1pm so I have a bit of time to sit and reflect on the last 10 days..........

First and most important, the time spent here makes me realize once again how lucky I am to be able to travel with the love of my life.  We are both healthy and have the means and the time to take these amazing journeys together ~  to share sights that are world renowned or almost undiscovered, to share meals that have been prepared with pride and love and passed down from generation to generation, to share time with people wherever we go that makes me realize that we are all the same ~ we love our families, we worry about health, our jobs, our relationships, our finances, and we keep hoping for the next day to be better than the last.

I also realize how much technology has changed the world ~ I was able to text my daughter while sitting on a remote beach on a little island in the middle of the Aegean sea.  We were able to FaceTime with our grandsons and hear about Seb's days at school and see Danielle's new haircut and watch Charlie crawl around the floor at amazing speed ~ all this while sitting on our little balcony at Spiros.  I was able to share my photos and experiences through my blog and FaceBook and keep in touch with friends who are in Paris, the US, other parts of Greece, and Canada.  We saw little old ladies in the most remote inland villages talking on cellphones and free wifi being advertised in many tiny cafes and bars everywhere we went.  The world is both a larger and smaller place and we are all connected, sometimes too much.  My hubby kept in constant contact with his work through e-mail and I kept checking the status of the stock markets so I can keep up to date with my work.  But we could also hear Charlie's giggles and Seb play his first out of tune notes on his new recorder.

We also got to experience the joys of nude sunbathing once again ~ we are so uptight in North America and nudity is so related to sexuality.  It's OK for kids to grow up playing the most violent games on their Nintendo and PlayStation systems, but heaven forbid they see a woman nursing a child or someone enjoying the sun discretely on the beach.  There is such a sense of freedom in enjoying the sea without a wet bathing suit clinging to you or relaxing on the warm sand and having the sun dry you off in minutes.  Many people seem to think only young people with perfect bodies can be nude in public.  Well, we spent 6 days on the nude beaches of Plaka and we didn't see any perfect people, only happy ones.  When you see people of all ages, all shapes and sizes, being comfortable with themselves and others, you realize that we are all beautiful.  Curves, wrinkles, saggy boobs and bellies, tanned backsides and lily white legs, private parts of all shades and sizes ~ it's all normal and it's all good.  In the end, who cares what other people look like. Be yourself and love yourself, at every stage in your life.  Life really is way too short not to.

The Greeks are a very devout and religious people, but they live their religion in a quiet, dignified way.  Religious icons are everywhere ~ in the homes, in the cars, on the walls of the streets as you walk by, in the restaurants, cafes and bars, in the shops and the harbours.  Little churches with their iconic domed roofs and crosses are seen in every town and village, on the most remote roads and in the valleys and on top of the highest hills.  Tasos, our taxi driver, crossed himself whenever we drove or walked by a church and kissed the religious pictures in every church we went into.  He did this quietly and matter of factly, never feeling he had to explain, apologize or sermonize. We saw many people do the same in our 10 days here and we felt a profound sense of respect for their faith and how they express it.  I can't help but contrast this to both how some of the more conservative faiths in North America feel like they constantly have to impose their religious views and morals on everyone else and also how the fundamentalist Islamist radicals have turned their faith into an excuse for war and killing, with the subjugation of women and the Western world as their goal.  I have always believed that God is inside of us and that he just wants us to be happy and to be kind to others.  This is how I have seen the Greek people live their lives in the past days and it's a way that I respect very much.  I know that God doesn't want us to hate and kill in his name ~ he wants us to love and respect each other.

Finally, the kindness and generosity of the people we have met during our time in Naxos has had a profound effect on both of us.  These people are facing difficult financial hardship, they don't know what the future holds and they have so much less than what we think we "need" in our North American, consumer obsessed lives.  Yet they never fail to take the time to make sure you are having a good time, that you have everything you need, that you are comfortable, full, satisfied and happy.  Everywhere we went, there was a little something extra offered, a kindness extended, a blessing given. The Greeks are also so family oriented and they just want to make life better for their kids and comfortable for their parents ~ really, what we all want out of life, but they seem to be able to make it their priority in a way we can't seem to.  Taking pleasure in a meal with family, a walk together in the evening or just sitting and talking and having a coffee or glass of wine ~ these are all things that are part of everyday life and are savoured.

My work is very stressful and I've come to a point where I am very unsure what I want to do going forward.  I've used this time on Naxos to do lots of thinking and to find perspective.  What is truly important to me going forward?  I think I know but am I prepared to make the changes necessary to simplify my life.  It's very difficult for me to make life-altering changes and I have struggled for 3 years to find a balance in my life.  I'm still reflecting on what I want and I know that I will be spending time on Santorini gazing out into the wondrous vista of the caldera and trying to decide what to do.

See you on Santorini........




Sunday, 23 September 2012

Last days in Naxos.........





Guess where Den wants to go next year! We have completely fallen head over heels in love with Naxos ~ the sandy beaches that go on for miles, the little villages with spectacular views, the freshest food, the homemade wine, sipping warm rakomelo at a little bar with a view of the harbour, and most of all the people ~ the warmest, friendliest, most genuine and accommodating people we have ever met.  In the face of financial hardship and adversity, their first concern is always making sure we are enjoying ourselves and that we have everything we could possibly need.  From Stelios, the owner of our little family run hotel, who took time from his busy day last Friday to pick us up at the airport and wouldn't take any payment, to Tasos, our guide and taxi driver who did everything he could to make sure we had an unforgettable day visiting his island on Tuesday, to Anna, who cooks up simple and delicious food at her little taverna near Plaka beach while taking care of her sweet little kids, to the many bar and restaurant owners who have offered us a drink, a dessert, an extra taste to make our time more special, to everyone we meet on the streets who greet us with a smile and a yassas.  They have stolen our hearts and we will ensure we manage to come back here soon, to spend even longer on this wonderful island where you are treated like family.

We had a wonderful dinner at Labyrinth in old town Naxos on Friday night after Den took his many pictures of the sunset near the Portara.  Like last year, we couldn't go right up due to high winds and the sea sweeping over the walking linking the town and the Portara, but the views (and pictures) were still stunning.





















Den had a great spinach salad with huge shareds of parmesan to start with and I had a food orgasm over my oyster mushrooms in a cream sauce.  Den chose a seafood risotto for his main and I  had homemade parpadelle with sun dried tomatoes, pine nuts and spinach.  We enjoyed a very smooth bottle of red wine from the Peloponnese area of Greece.








Lovely Labyrinth in old town Naxos




We spent Saturday and Sunday at Plaka beach, enjoying the sunshine, the warm sea, and more of Anna's delicious home made food.  We also treated ourselves to a couple of massages on the beach and we enjoyed walking along the beach hand in hand, drinking in these delicious moments and trying to imprint them on our brains so we can come back to them again and again during our long, cold, dark Canadian winters.

Dinner last night was at SottoVento on St George beach ~ it's run by a Parisian couple (!) and we had great pizza cooked in their wood burning oven.  Our waiter, Edward, is from Albania and we spend almost an hour talking with him about many different subjects.  His struggle to make a better life for his family over the last 20 years certainly put our life into perspective.  The human spirit is amazingly strong and the desire for freedom can overcome many adversities.  Getting to  know him a little bit made our trip that much better and gave us an insight into what makes people tick around the world.  In the end, we all want the same things ~ love, security for our family, peace and to make the world a better place for our children and grandchildren.  I'll leave you with these pictures from our last few days:










































Goodbye Naxos, hello Santorini tomorrow......

Friday, 21 September 2012

Lazing the days away.......


We spent the last few days just lazing in the sun on beautiful Plaka beach.  It is further down from the beach we came to earlier this week and this time last year, but Tasos recommended it to us and we are very happy he did.

The beach has nicer sand and is very quiet ~ probably because it is away from most of the hotels and tavernas that line the road.  Tasos's sister and brother-in-law run a little hotel and taverna and they also rent sunbeds on the beach.  This was a bonus for us since we have been just laying on our beach towels in the last few days because there were no sun beds available on the nude part of the beach.  This part of Plaka has both nude and textile sunbathers, but everyone is very respectful and there's lot of room for everyone to spread out.  We lazed away Wednesday and Thursday in pretty much the same way ~ walking up and down the beach, dipping into the refreshing sea to cool off, reading our novels and dozing off and having lunch at the little taverna across the road.

Maria, the sweet lady who cooks and runs the restaurant invited us into her spotless kitchen on both days to choose our meals from the meals she had made fresh that day.  On Wednesday,  we shared stuffed eggplant and white beans in a tomato sauce and on Thursday, Den has meatballs and rice and I had stuffed tomatoes.  Greek salads and Maria's homemade white wine completed our lunch each day and we welcomed the time out of the sun, enjoying these simple, homemade meals.

beautiful Plaka beach

Den in his glory

the beach goes on for miles


the little taverna across the road from the beach





stuffed eggplant ~ OMG!
stuffed tomatoes

what's for lunch
Den's meatballs & rice



After our long, exhausting days at the beach, evenings are for walking around the town, enjoying the sights and sounds of Naxos town as it comes alive for the tourists and locals who are looking for something to eat, a place to have a drink and unwind, or just a spot to marvel at the sunset and the colours of a sky that no photos can ever do justice to.  Dinner on Wednesday was in the old town, where we enjoyed Dakos, a salad made with crispy bread, tomatoes, cheese, olives and capers and finally, our beloved fried tomato balls.  We both had grilled calamari for our mains.  As we waddled home to the hotel, we still found room for loukamades with honey and cappucinos.  A perfect way to end our night.

On Thursday, we had a drink at one of the many seaside bars right on the harbour and enjoyed some wonderful conversation with a French couple.  We had a late dinner at Meze2, a harbour front restaurant where we enjoyed the mild evening air, some stunning views of the ships in the harbour, some great people watching and a very entertaining table of 12 young people next to us who spent their meal sharing many plates, drinking ouzo and flirting with each other.  I had a wonderful octupus salad with boiled potatoes and Den had grilled sardines, which he dipped in his olive oil and ate whole.  We then capped off our evening at yet another little bar with a view of the water, where Den enjoyed one of the Cuban cigars he bought at the airport in Toronto before we left.  We both had warmed up Rakimelo, a Greek liqueur made of Raki, honey and cinnamon.  A perfect end to a perfect day.

the view from our room!

looking out the window from our table at Metaxa Mas




grilled calamari

yeah ~ loukamades!


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octopus and potato salad

sardines



rakimelo



Today, we took a break from the sun (to Den's sorrow, lol) and took a walk into the less touristy parts of Naxos town.  We did a little shopping and stopped for lunch at Braziliana, our loukamades place.  We had homemade spanokopita which had a very nice lemony taste and sat and chatted with a British couple for about an hour.  We lazed away the afternoon by our hotel pool and we are getting ready to walk into town again so Den can get his sunset pictures from the Portara.  We have dinner reservations at Labrynith in the old town at 8:30.

Breakfast, Spiros style









Kalispera........